Caves and the Moving Lighthouses of Lighthouse Point

Modern day Lighthouse Point showing the Purisima Formation and the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse which was built in 1967. Photo: Julia Gaudinski/Mobile Ranger
Modern day Lighthouse Point showing the Purisima Formation and the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse, which was built in 1967. Photo: Julia Gaudinski/Mobile Ranger

Lighthouse Point in Santa Cruz, California, is surrounded by world class surf spots and amazing views. It’s named for the lighthouse built to commemorate a local boy who went surfing and never came back. The lighthouse is a museum of local surf history, and the whole area has grown to be a special nexus of expression for the Santa Cruz surfing community. So it seems fitting, even though unfortunate, that this gateway to the ocean’s beauty and power is threatened by the power of the ocean.

Its Beach with Lighthouse Point in the background.
Its Beach with Lighthouse Point in the background. Photo: Julia Gaudinski/Mobile Ranger

Lighthouse Point is composed of a particularly resistant part of the Purisima Formation. In general, the Purisima erodes fairly easily. For this reason, the ocean was able to cut landward and create the Monterey Bay. However, Lighthouse Point and a few other resistant headlands, including San Lorenzo Point and Pleasure Point, have withstood the ocean’s erosive force. Lighthouse Point actually protects Monterey Bay’s northern beaches from much of the wave energy they would otherwise get from the dominantly northwest waves. Even so, Lighthouse Point is not immune to wave erosion.

The lighthouse circa 1888. Photo courtesy of the Santa Cruz City-County Library System.
The lighthouse circa 1888. Photo: Courtesy of the Santa Cruz City-County Library System

Original Lighthouse Had to be Moved

The original lighthouse was built in 1869, close to the edge of the cliff. In 1878, less than 10 years later, a letter was sent to the Lighthouse Board noting that three large caves (all over 50 feet long and 50 feet wide) penetrated the point, and the largest extended to within 12 feet of the lighthouse.

To preemptively save the lighthouse from potential catastrophic cliff erosion, the Lighthouse Board ordered it to be picked up and moved 300 feet inward. Thus, from 1879 to 1948, the lighthouse was located on the north side of what is now West Cliff Drive.

Aerial view of Lighthouse point circa 1941. You can see the beacon and the old lighthouse on the north side of West Cliff Drive. Image is used courtesy of Frank Perry. Ed Webber was the photographer.
Aerial view of Lighthouse Point circa 1941. You can see the beacon and the old lighthouse on the north side of West Cliff Drive. Photo: By Ed Webber, used courtesy of Frank Perry

A Long Run Comes to an End

In 1939, the Coast Guard assumed responsibility for all of the nation’s lighthouses. Shortly thereafter, the Coast Guard installed an automated beacon on top of a white wooden tower and decommissioned Santa Cruz’s lighthouse. The beacon was about 20 feet north of the current Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse. The light from the beacon was less than half as bright as that from the lighthouse. Despite a vibrant shipping past, by 1930, due to roads and railroads, Santa Cruz no longer had much shipping traffic. Therefore, the beacon was bright enough to be seen only by local fishing boats.

The lighthouse facilities were used briefly during World War II to house 200 soldiers stationed there during the war. After WWII, however, the lighthouse was not serving a particular purpose for the Coast Guard, so it was demolished. From 1948 until 1967, Santa Cruz had no lighthouse. There was just a beacon with a light so weak that local fisherman complained it couldn’t be distinguished from the car headlights on West Cliff Drive.

Aerial view of Lighthouse Point in 1957. The beacon stands alone. The only traces of the lighthouse are the cypress trees that outline where it stood from 1878 to 1948. Image is used courtesy of Frank Perry.
Aerial view of Lighthouse Point in 1957. The beacon stands alone. The only traces of the original lighthouse are the cypress trees that outline where it stood from 1879 to 1948. Photo: Used courtesy of Frank Perry

The New Lighthouse

The beacon might still be the only light here today if not for the tragic death of a local boy named Mark Abbott. On a Sunday morning in February, 1965, Mark went to the beach with his friends, went body surfing, and never returned. Mark’s parents, Chuck and Esther Abbott, were able to turn their grief from losing a child into something positive for the community: a new lighthouse at Lighthouse Point. The Abbotts made sure that the lighthouse honored even more than their son. A bronze plaque inside the lighthouse reads:

“This lighthouse is further dedicated to all our youth whose lives, through fate or misadventure, are terminated before realizing their true potential. May their spirits find new dimension in the unknown horizons that await us all.”

Same Cave Problem

The brick remains of the original lighthouse built in 1869 lie just a few hundred feet toward the ocean from the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse.

Brick remnants of the original 1869 lighthouse (center left). The round brick thing (center right) was a cistern used for collecting rainwater from the lighthouse roof. These can be seen in the cliff edge in the cove to the east of the "Don't Be Next" sign.
Brick remnants of the original 1869 lighthouse (center left). The round brick shape (center right) was a cistern used for collecting rainwater from the lighthouse roof. Photo: Julia Gaudinski/Mobile Ranger

In 1980, one of the caves that undermined the original lighthouse was plugged with concrete because it threatened to undermine the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse. Unfortunately, the plug did more harm than good, because it deflected waves upward, increased erosion of the upper cliff, and exposed the brick foundation of the original lighthouse site. It eventually washed out in 2000.

Filling the caves under Lighthouse Point in 1980. Photo by and courtesy of Frank Perry.
Filling the caves under Lighthouse Point in 1980. Photo: By and courtesy of Frank Perry

During the El Niño storms of 1982–83, waves eroded the sea cliff to within 10 feet of the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse. A new concrete retaining wall was built in the 1990s, and the walkways and fences in this area are constantly being moved landward. Two caves still remain: one just to left of lighthouse, facing south (the one that had the concrete plug) and another on the west side, facing southwest. That second one is quite deep and extends almost to the lighthouse.

Modern day Lighthouse Point showing the Purisima Formation and the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse which was built in 1967.
The cave filled in 1980, which is still eroding. Photo: Julia Gaudinski/Mobile Ranger
A cave in the Purisima Formation which is undercutting modern day Lighthouse Point.
A cave in the Purisima Formation, which is undercutting modern day Lighthouse Point on the west side of Santa Cruz. Photo: Julia Gaudinski/Mobile Ranger
A crane placing rip-rap near Steamer Lane in 1981. Photo courtesy of and © Frank Perry.
A crane placing rip rap rocks near Steamer Lane in 1981. Photo Courtesy of and by Frank Perry

Much of West Cliff Drive has been armored with rip rap (1– to 2–ton boulders placed in a group) and sea walls to try to prevent erosion from cutting back the coastline. Such protections at Lighthouse Point certainly conflict with its natural beauty and surf. But the caves are there and, at some point, hard decisions about additional armoring of Lighthouse Point versus saving the lighthouse will have to be made. Perhaps it could be moved back across West Cliff Drive?

A view from the mountains to the eroding coast along West Cliff Drive in 2010. Picture © Kenneth and Gabrielle Adelman, California Coastal Records Project www.Californiacoastline.org.
A view from the Santa Cruz Mountains to the eroding coast along West Cliff Drive in 2010. Photo: © Kenneth and Gabrielle Adelman, California Coastal Records Project www.Californiacoastline.org

Further Information

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This piece is part of the West Cliff Drive Tour. Download the free app with many tours of the Santa Cruz area and beyond.

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  1. Sources

    • Lighthouse Point: Illuminating Santa Cruz, by Frank A. Perry. Otter B Books, 2002.
    • Living with the Changing California Coast, by Gary B. Griggs, Kiki Patsch, and Lauret E. Savoy. University of California Press, 2005.
    • Personal communication with Frank Perry, Historian, Santa Cruz County, February 2012.
    • Personal communication with Gary Griggs, Distinguished Professor of Marine Sciences, University of California Santa Cruz, February 2012.

About The Author

I really enjoy field trips. I love being in a cool place and having someone tell me about it. The problem is, you can’t always find a professor or park ranger-type to tell you all they know about the local rocks, plants, and history. So I decided to combine my love of things natural with mobile technology.

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2 Comments

  1. Dash

    Great article! The use of rip-rap has already destroyed and damaged much of West Cliff, it would be such a shame to see more of it. If we keep it up there will be no more arches, no more beaches, no more sandstone cliffs: all the things that make Santa Cruz so beautiful. Managed Retreat would definitely be the best option, I hope the city has enough foresight to do so.

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